VOL.2 | 20/FW NATURAL DYE
When thinking about the 2020/FW collection, I picked up a collection of photographs of trees from around the world, collected over many years by the British explorer Thomas Pakenham. I was struck by how nature is full of strong personalities... and at the same time I felt a stronger sense of reverence for nature.
So, to make the most of the unique colour grains of each tree, I dyed them with the familiar NATURALLDYE, a dye extracted from the bark of lime tree, yakusugi cedar, jemper and other trees.
The warm white of the lime tree, which was particularly impressive, was chosen as the season's main colour.
【What is ATON's NATURAL DYE?】
ATON's NATURAL DYE products are dyed using dyes extracted from plant flowers, leaves, stems, bark, pericarp or minerals.
Usually, when dyeing by extracting pigments from plants, the pigments are stabilised by a chemical reaction with metal dissolved in water, which causes the pigments to adhere and develop colour. The metallic liquid 'mordant' causes the colour to appear dull. NATURAL DYE does not use mordants, and the colours do not fade easily and can be dyed in beautiful shades.
Pigments extracted from plants contain more pigments than the human eye can see, and within the 'one colour' we recognise, there are as many as 200 different pigments, with both strong and weak pigments reflecting diffusely in the light to create a deep colour. In contrast, chemical dyes are uniformly sized particles and reflect light evenly, making them appear clear and flat. Therefore, products dyed with NATURAL DYE have a mixture of natural and complex reflections from pigments extracted from plants and clear reflections like chemical dyes, reproducing the true colours of the plants.
NATURAL DYE is also pigmented with plant-extracted dyes and slightly reinforced with chemical dyes (approx. 5-10%). This is to increase light fastness (strength) and perspiration fastness, and to assist the instability of the plant pigments.
At ATON, we do not insist on 100% natural dye, but use ATON's NATURAL DYE to create exciting products with natural colours dyed under safe conditions.
Tilia Miqueliana（Warm White）
Botaiju is a species of plant in the linden family.
A deciduous tree native to China. Height is around 10 m. Flowering season is around June-July, with pale yellow flowers. It is said to have been brought back to Japan from China by Eisai, founder of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, and is often planted in Buddhist temples in various regions.
Yakusugi is a genus of evergreen coniferous trees native to Japan in the subfamily Cedarinae of the cypress family.
Yakusugi is a cedar that grows naturally in the mountains of Yakushima at altitudes of 500 m or more and is more than 1,000 years old; those less than 1,000 years old are called kosugi. Yakusugi cedar grows on the nutrient-poor granite island and is a slow-growing plant with a dense grain and high rainfall and high humidity, which makes it high in resin content and resistant to decay.
Juniperus Chinensis （Blue Gray）
Jemper, also known as ibis jacchus, is a tall evergreen tree of the genus jacchus of the cypress family, with many varieties and cultivars.
The leaves are short and close together on the stem, and they are attached to each other, giving the leaf-bearing branches a rod-like appearance. The wood is reddish and beautifully textured, and is used for furniture and floor posts. Some believe that the name Ibuki comes from Mount Ibuki in Shiga Prefecture.
Fraxinus Japonica（Charcoal Gray）
The ash tree is a deciduous tree classified in the family Moraceae and is a species originating from Japan.
The bark is used as a medicine and the wood has excellent elasticity and is used for building materials. The plant was first regarded as a 'wood to coat doors with', as white wax was applied to the grooves of thresholds to make them more slippery, and the word was then subverted to be pronounced 'toneriko'.
Logwood is a natural plant dye.
It is a tall evergreen tree of the legume family native to Mexico and South America. It is said to ward off evil spirits and is used as a dye for Buddhist robes. It is said to have dyed Napoleon's coat and Admiral Nelson's jacket in the British fleet, and in Japan the plant was used to dye mourning clothes.
Redwoods are found on the Pacific coast of the USA, from southwestern Oregon to central California.
The plant grows up to 70-80 m high and 4.5 m in diameter, and is known worldwide for becoming a giant tree and a symbol of the woodland landscape.
Ficus Carica（Charcoal Gray）
The fig is a deciduous tree of the family Asteraceae and the genus fig, as well as its fruit.
Originating from southern Arabia, there are more than 100 species and the plant is cultivated worldwide as a fruit tree.